amakuru

Mu buryo bugoye bwo kwita ku musatsi, buri gice gifite umurimo wihariye kandi gikorana kugira ngo kigere ku miterere myiza n'ingaruka nziza z'amabara.Gliseril monothioglycolate(CAS 30618-84-9), nk'ikintu cy'ingenzi kigabanya aside, nubwo atari igice cy'ingenzi mu gusiga irangi ry'umusatsi no kuwusiga irangi mu buryo butaziguye, bigira uruhare runini mu gusiga irangi ry'umusatsi. Imiterere yayo yihariye y'ibinyabutabire itanga inkunga y'ingenzi mu kongera ingaruka zo gusiga irangi mu musatsi no kugabanya kwangirika k'umusatsi.

I. Ibiranga ibice: Igabanya ubushyuhe mu bidukikije aside

Kugira ngo wumve uruhare rwa glyceryl monothioglycolate mu gusiga irangi ku musatsi, ni ngombwa kubanza gusobanura imiterere y'ingenzi ya shimi yayo. Iki gice kiri mu muryango w'ibice bya thiol. Itsinda rya thiol (-SH) riri mu miterere ya molekile yaryo rifite imikorere ikomeye yo kugabanya, mu gihe itsinda rya glyceride riyiha ubushobozi bwo gushonga neza mu mazi no guhuza uruhu. Ugereranyije n'ibintu bisanzwe bigabanya alkaline, inyungu ikomeye ya glyceryl monothioglycolate iri mu rugero rwa pH ifite aside nkeya (ubusanzwe iri hagati ya 3.0-4.0). Iyi miterere ituma ishobora kugira ingaruka nziza mu gihe yirinda kwangirika gukabije ku ruhu rw'umusatsi guterwa n'ibice byinshi bya alkaline. Shyiraho urufatiro rw' "ubuvuzi bworoheje" ku gikorwa gikurikiraho cyo gusiga irangi ku musatsi.

Ese?

Ku bijyanye n'ituze,glyceril monothioglycolateNtiyoroshye kubora mu buryo bwa aside kandi ishobora gukomeza gukora igihe kirekire. Iyi miterere ituma ikoreshwa mu gukorana na molecules za pigment, buffers n'ibindi bigize amarangi y'umusatsi kugira ngo habeho formulas zihamye zo kwita ku musatsi. Hagati aho, imiterere yayo ya glyceride ishobora no gukora agahu gakingira ku buso bw'umusatsi, bigabanye kwangirika kw'imiterere ya keratin y'umusatsi iterwa no kuvurwa nyuma y'imiti, bigatanga igisubizo cyiza cyo kuvura irangi ry'umusatsi wangiritse cyangwa umusatsi mwiza kandi woroshye.

II. Uruhare rw'ingenzi mu gusiga irangi mu musatsi: Gufungura "imiyoboro" no kongera kuramba kw'amabara

Ishingiro ry'uburyo bwo gusiga irangi mu musatsi ni ukwinjira no gufata neza kwa molekile z'ibara mu musatsi. Ariko, inzitizi karemano z'umusatsi - cuticle na keratin structures - zibuza mu buryo butaziguye kwinjira kwa molekile z'ibara. Akamaro k'ingenzi ka glyceryl monomercaptoacetate ni uguca uru rubibi binyuze mu gukora kwa shimi no "gufungura inzira" za molekile z'ibara.

1. Guca imigozi ya disulfide no koroshya imiterere y'umusatsi

Ingufu n'ubudahangarwa by'umusatsi biterwa ahanini n'imigozi ya disulfide (-SS-) iri hagati ya molekile za keratin. Itsinda rya thiol (-SH) riri muri Glyceryl monothioglycolate rishobora gukorana n'imigozi ya disulfide, rigatuma habaho amatsinda abiri ya thiol (-SH + -SS- → -SS- + -SH), bityo bigaca isano iri hagati ya keratin. Iyi nzira ituma imiterere y'umusatsi yoroha kandi igoroye, uduce tw'umusatsi dufunguka buhoro buhoro, kandi umwanya w'imbere w'umusatsi urarekurwa, bigatuma molekile z'ibara ry'umusatsi zinjira mu irangi ry'umusatsi.

Ugereranyije na aside mercaptoacetic ikoreshwa mu bintu bifasha umusatsi kwinjira mu musatsi mu buryo bwa alkaline, imiterere y’umusatsi wa glyceryl monothioglycolate ifite aside nkeya ishobora kugenzura neza urwego rw’ivunika ry’umusatsi wa disulfide, hirindwa kwangirika gukabije kwatuma umusatsi ucika intege kandi woroshye kuvunika. Amakuru y’igerageza agaragaza ko mu gihe kimwe cyo kuwutunganya, iyo ukoresheje umuti urimo iki gice mbere yo kuvura, igipimo cyo gucika kw’umusatsi wa disulfide gishobora kugenzurwa kuri 30%-40%, ibyo bikaba bitashobora gusa kuzuza ibisabwa mu ibara ry’umusatsi ahubwo bikanagumana imbaraga zirenga 70% z’imbaraga z’umusatsi.

2. Kongera irangi ry'umusatsi kugira ngo wongere igihe cyo gusiga irangi ry'umusatsi

Iyo imisatsi ifungutse kandi imiterere y'umusatsi ikagenda yoroha, imisemburo y'ibara ry'umusatsi (nk'iy'ibara ry'umusatsi rigizwe n'ibara ry'umusatsi n'ibara ry'umusatsi rito) ishobora kwinjira mu gice cy'umusatsi neza. Ahantu hafite aside nkeya ya glyceryl monothioglycolate hashobora no kugenzura imiterere y'umusatsi imbere - umusatsi uzagira aside nziza mu gihe cy'aside, bigatuma ibara ry'umusatsi rikururwa n'ibara ry'umusatsi rigabanuka, bigafasha imisemburo y'ibara gukomera kuri keratin no kugabanya gutakaza ibara mu gihe cyo koza.

Mu buryo bufatika, kuramba kw'ingaruka zo gusiga irangi ku musatsi bishobora kwiyongeraho 20% kugeza kuri 30% nyuma yo kuvurwa hakoreshejwe umuti urimoglyceril monothioglycolateUrugero, igihe cyo gusibanganya ibara ry’umusatsi usanzwe ku musatsi mwiza kandi woroshye ni ibyumweru 4 kugeza kuri 6. Ariko, nyuma yo kuvurwa n’iki kintu, igihe cyo gusibanganya ibara gishobora kongerwa kugeza ku byumweru 6 kugeza kuri 8, kandi ibara rirushaho kuzura, hirindwa ibibazo nko gusibanganya ku mitwe y’umusatsi no gutandukana gukabije kw’amabara mashya ku mizi y’umusatsi.

Ese?

III. Ingero z'ishyirwa mu bikorwa: Ishyirwa cyane cyane mu "gutera ipasi no gusiga irangi bihuje"

Nubwo glyceryl monothioglycolate ishobora gufasha mu gusiga irangi ku musatsi, ntabwo yongerwa mu marangi ku musatsi ahubwo ikunze kuboneka mu bikoresho bisiga irangi ku musatsi (cyane cyane ibikoresho bisiga irangi ku musatsi) cyangwa ibikoresho bitegura kuvura umusatsi, bigatuma habaho "ubufatanye" n'uburyo bwo gusiga irangi ku musatsi. Ingero zikunze gukoreshwa zirimo ibyiciro bibiri bikurikira:

1. Gahunda yo kurinda umusatsi wangiritse ya "perm mbere na mbere, hanyuma irangi"

Ku musatsi wangiritse uterwa no gusimbuka no gusiga irangi kenshi, inzira gakondo yo "gusimbuka mbere hanyuma ugasiga irangi" ishobora gutuma umusatsi utakaza ubushobozi bwawo bwo gukomera burundu bitewe n'ibyangiritse bibiri bya shimi. Muri iki gihe, ikintu gikingira umusatsi kirimo glyceryl monothioglycolate kiba ingenzi cyane: ahantu hacyo hafite aside nkeya hashobora kugabanya kwangirika kwa cuticle mu gihe cyo gusimbuka, mu gihe kigaca buhoro buhoro imigozi ya disulfide, bigatuma umusatsi ukora imiterere igororotse mu gihe ukomeza gukomera. Iyo usiga irangi nyuma, cuticle zifunguye zemerera molekile za pigment kwinjira vuba, bikuraho gukenera andi marangi menshi y'umusatsi bityo bikagabanya ibyago byo kwangirika kabiri.

2. Uburyo bwo kuvura umusatsi woroshye kandi mwiza mbere yo "gutera ibara"

Ubucucike bwa keratin bw'umusatsi muto n'uworoshye ni buke, kandi imiterere ya cuticle iba nto. Iyo irangi ritambitse, ibara ry'umusatsi rikunda gufata ku buso kandi biragoye kwinjira mu gice cya cortex, bigatuma amabara yera agaragara neza kandi amabara agashira byoroshye. Kuri iyi ngingo, ushobora kubanza gukoresha umuti urimo glyceryl monothioglycolate mbere yo kuvura umusatsi wawe: ingaruka zawo zishobora guca gato imigozi ya disulfide mu musatsi muto n'uworoshye, bigatuma imiterere y'umusatsi iba "irekuye", kandi icyarimwe, agace karinda gakorwa n'amatsinda ya glyceryl ester ku buso bw'umusatsi gashobora gukumira gutakaza cyane ibara ry'umusatsi. Nyuma yo kuvura mbere yo gusiga irangi ku musatsi, ibara ry'umusatsi rishobora gukwirakwira neza mu gice cya cortex, bigatuma habaho ibara ryuzuye, kandi bishobora kandi kugabanya ubukana bwa ammonia, hydrogen peroxide n'ibindi bice biri mu irangi ry'umusatsi kugeza ku musatsi muto n'uworoshye.

IV. Amabwiriza yo Kwitondera Ikoreshwa: Kuba hari allergie n'uburyo bwo guhuza formula ni ingenzi

Nubwo glyceryl monothioglycolate ifite akamaro gakomeye mu gufasha mu gusiga irangi ku musatsi, bitewe n’imiterere yayo ya shimi, umutekano n’ubuhanga mu gukoresha formula bigomba gukurikiranwa neza mu gihe cyo kuyikoresha kugira ngo hirindwe ingaruka zishobora kubaho.

1. Iterambere ry'uruhu rishobora gutera ubwivumbure: Hagomba gukorwa ibizamini by'uruhu

Glyceryl monothioglycolate iri mu bwoko bwa thiol kandi ni imwe mu ndwara zikunze gutera ubwivumbure mu bikoresho byo kwita ku musatsi. Byaba ari ukugaragara igihe kirekire n'abakora mu kwita ku musatsi (nk'uko uruhu rw'intoki rukora kenshi) cyangwa abakoresha ibikoresho byo gusiga irangi birimo iki kintu, bishobora gutera dermatitis yo mu mutwe - ibimenyetso bigaragazwa no gutukura, kuribwa, no gushya ku mutwe. Mu bihe bikomeye, udusebe, gushisha bishobora kubaho, ndetse bigakwirakwira no mu bice bifatanye nko mu maso no mu ijosi.

Gliseril monothioglycolateNi ngombwa kurushaho kumenya ko iki gice gishobora kuguma mu musatsi nyuma yo gusigwa cyangwa gusigwa irangi mu gihe cy'amezi atatu. Nubwo nta burwayi bugaragara mu gihe cyo kuwukoresha bwa mbere, ibintu bisigaye bishobora gukomeza gukora ku mutwe mu gihe cyo kuwusukura no kuwusokoza, bigatera ingaruka mbi z'ubwivumbure. Kubwibyo, imiti yose yo kwita ku musatsi irimo iki gice igomba gupimwa uruhu mu masaha 48 inyuma y'ugutwi cyangwa imbere mu kuboko mbere yo kuwukoresha. Nyuma yo kwemeza ko nta ngaruka zibaho nko gutukura, kubyimba, cyangwa kwishima, ishobora gukoreshwa ku mutwe.

2. Gukoresha formula: Ntibishobora gukoreshwa byonyine

Ingaruka za Glyceryl monothioglycolate zishingiye cyane ku guhuza imisatsi kandi ntizishobora gukoreshwa gusa mu kwita ku musatsi. Ku ruhande rumwe, igomba guhuzwa n'ibice bifasha mu gutunganya imisatsi (nka aside citric na sodium dihydrogen phosphate) kugira ngo igumane ahantu hadakomeye hafite aside nkeya. Iyo iyo formula idafite ibice bifasha mu gutunganya imisatsi, pH yayo ishobora kwiyongera uko igihe kibikwa, bitagabanya gusa ubukana bwayo ahubwo bishobora no gutuma ibikorwa bigabanuka. Ku rundi ruhande, igomba guhuzwa n'ibintu bitera ubwivumbure (nka disodium EDTA) kugira ngo hirindwe ko iyoni za kalisiyumu na manyeziyumu mu mazi zihura n'ibice byayo kandi bigira ingaruka ku ituze.

Byongeye kandi, iki kintu gifite ibidahuye n’ibikomoka ku musatsi birimo alkaline nyinshi, nk’amabara y’umusatsi afite amoniya irenga 3%. Iyo kivanze neza n’amabara y’umusatsi afite alkaline nyinshi, ibidukikije bifite aside nkeya bizahungabanywa. Ntabwo bizafasha gusa mu iterambere ry’amabara, ahubwo bishobora no gutera imyuka ikarishye, ikangiza umusatsi no kubabara umutwe. Kubwibyo, imiti igabanya umusatsi cyangwa imiti igabanya umusatsi irimo iki gice igomba gukoreshwa mu buryo bunyuranye n’amabara y’umusatsi (ubusanzwe ni byiza gusiga irangi umusatsi amasaha 24 kugeza kuri 48 nyuma yo gusiga irangi), kandi ntigomba kugerwaho n’ibara.

Ese?

3. Gutunganya ibisigazwa: Hakenewe gusukurwa neza nyuma yo gutera ipasi no gusiga irangi

Kubera ko glyceryl monothioglycolate ishobora kuguma mu musatsi igihe kirekire, nyuma yo kurangiza igikorwa cyo gusiga irangi no gusiga irangi, ni ngombwa koza umusatsi neza ukoresheje shampoo idafite aho ihuriye kugira ngo ukureho ibice bisigaye. Mu gihe cyo gusukura, ni byiza gukoresha amazi ashyushye (agera kuri 37℃) kugira ngo wirinde gukurura umutwe w'umutwe n'amazi ashyushye cyane. Muri icyo gihe, ushobora gukoresha conditioner irimo panthenol na ceramide kugira ngo usane imisatsi yangiritse kandi ugabanye ingaruka zihoraho z'ibisigaye ku musatsi.

V. Umwanzuro: "Kudasimburwa" kw'inshingano zo gushyigikira

Nubwoglyceryl monothioglycolate CAS 30618-84-9Si cyo kintu cy'ingenzi mu gusiga irangi no gusiga irangi ku musatsi, cyabaye "inyongera yoroshye" mu gusiga irangi ku musatsi bitewe n'ubushobozi bwacyo bwo kugabanya aside nke. Glyceryl monothioglycolate itanga igisubizo cyizewe kandi cyiza cyo gusiga irangi ku musatsi wangiritse n'umusatsi mwiza kandi woroshye binyuze mu gufungura ibice by'inyuma no kunoza irangi. Muri icyo gihe, inashyiraho urufatiro rwo kunoza kuramba no kugaragaza amabara y'umusatsi.

Ariko, ubushobozi bwayo bwo kugira ubwivumbure no gukoresha amata y'umusatsi bitwibutsa ko ikoreshwa ry'ibikoresho byo kwita ku musatsi rigomba kwita ku mikorere n'umutekano. Baba abaguzi cyangwa abakora imisatsi, bagomba gusobanukirwa neza imiterere y'ibikoreshwa no gukurikiza amabwiriza agenga ikoreshwa ryabyo nko gupima uruhu, guhuza amata y'umusatsi, no gusukura neza, kugira ngo iki "gikoresho cy'inyongera" kigire uruhare mu kugabanya ingaruka ku buzima ku rugero runini. Mu gihe kizaza, hamwe n'iterambere ry'ikoranabuhanga rya chimie yo gutunganya umusatsi, amata y'umusatsi ya glyceryl monothioglycolate ashobora kunozwa kurushaho. Urugero, mu kuyavanga n'ibikomoka ku bimera (nk'icyayi kibisi n'amata y'umusatsi), ingaruka zayo z'inyongera zishobora kugumaho mu gihe zigabanya ubwivumbure, zigatanga igisubizo cyizewe kandi cyoroshye ku ishami risiga irangi ku musatsi.